Welcome to Flatout Suspension!

Why should you buy Flatout Suspension coilovers?

Our sales team gets asked a lot; "Why should I choose your coilovers instead of {random brand} coilovers?" This is usually a tough question to answer, and while we feel our product is better than everyone else's in the price category, it's hard to answer the question without bringing someone else down. The question gets answered differently depending which model you are shopping (SR, ST, or GR). For the sake of simplicity, let's discuss the SR model as its our most popular budget coilover and the $800-$1400 market it is the largest.

Electroplated Threaded Body:
This is probably our key feature. Imagine the popular shock brand that comes to mind and picture the black threaded shock body. Underneath the paint is just raw steel. Sure it's covered with black paint, but that paint wears off. It just does. When you turn that ring, every time, you are shaving a micron of paint surface. If you have grit and gunk trapped between the ring and threaded body, it's like rubbing the paint with 80 grit sand paper. That paint comes off real easy, real fast, exposing bare/ raw steel. Something as simple as humidity in the air starts the corrosion process. Have you ever seen a deep scratch on a car turn to rust? Usually happens pretty fast.

"In contrast contact between copper, bronze, brass and different kinds of steel alloys (passive and active) and aluminum can cause severe corrosion so it is advisable to provide insulation between the two metals."

Once that corrosion takes place, the aluminum and steel will galvanize and fuse. If you've ever seen pictures online of people going through the depths of hell to get the rings unstuck, this is why. We have our shock bodies electroplated as our very first step in the assembly process. It's expensive but your positive experience is more important. Plus, it looks really pretty. Can't deny that.

Shocks are valved per application:
Some of those other brands have a few variations of shocks based on length, strut or a-arm (20mm shock rod vs 14mm) and that's about it. We take a lot of factors into building your suspension. Are you going to stance the car and get your Cambergang membership, or are you lowering 1" and daily driving? Even if both cars were a Subaru BRZ, we'd build the shock internals differently as you have different goals. Your low speed valving needs are different so a universal application just isn't going to cut it and you shouldn't accept it. We do offer an off the shelf version (that's what most people opt for) and buying online without communicating with us will get you a one-size-fits-all version.

Because the shocks are built when you order, we'll reach out to you with-in 24 hours to ask you a few questions (if we haven't already spoken). We want to make sure that you get exactly what you expect when you order.

Shock internals:
Not too many people know that shocks behavior has a lot to do with whats inside the shock body itself. It can't be more than a piston, some shims, oil, and nitrogen right? Well, there's a lot to it, actually.

  • Shock Piston (1): The first aspect here is what the piston is made from. Most of our competitors use a heavy (35g) steel piston, and we use a light weight (7g) CNC machined aluminum piston. Our piston weighs 5x less than our direct competitor. Heavy objects moving rapidly create heat, simple science. As these parts rest in oil, heat breaks down oil. Thinned oil has less resistance. Less resistance creates a bouncy ride.
  • Shock Piston (2): The next aspect of the piston (and accomodating shim stack orientation) is the type of piston you have; Digressive, Progressive, and Linear. Our SR model uses a linear piston as it's built as a street suspension with autocross capability. Basically, "digressive shocks are bad at small bumps and large bumps, but good at handling and g-outs. Progressive shocks are good at small bumps and big hits, but bad at handling and g-outs. Linear shocks provide the best all around performance." - Accutune Our SR combines both, linear on soft for a smooth daily driver, and digressive at full firm for track capabilities.
  • Valving Shims: This is probably THE most important part of your shock because it determines how your shock behaves. If the shim stack is built too light for your 500lb spring, its going to cause a bouncy suspension because it can't control the springs force as it decompresses on rebound. Not only is properly stacking shims crucial; which takes a lot of trial and error, the material of the shim itself is important. Our shocks use stainless steel shims where others use a lesser quality steel which gets hot spots and can warp, which adversely affects the shocks behavior.
  • Shock Oil: We use a fully synthetic shock oil (#5 Amsoil or #10 Amsoil depending on your needs). We've seen some competitors use mineral based hydraulic oil. This oil breaks down and gets foamy very easily. Oil is a key component in your suspensions behavior and it's somewhere we don't cut corners to save money.

Top Plates: While there isn't a lot of difference in components between manufacturers, some (mostly the $300 ebay coilovers) use a pillowball mount that rusts pretty quickly. It depends largely on the type of steel being used and everyone in the pricing category with us probably sources from a similar supplier as they at worst just get a little surface corrosion due to exposure. Our claim to fame is we give you the best option available for your car. If you have a strut based suspension, you'll get camber plates and radial bearing standard; you don't need to pay for the upgraded parts. If you have a-arm, you'll get pillowballs in your upper mount. There are some vehicles where we just don't have room to allow proper spacing to install a camber plate as the movement area is so minimal; in this case, the lower mount will accommodate extra angle to dial in the alignment.  If NVH is a major concern of yours and you want rubber mounts up top, we're happy to accomodate.

Lower mounting: Our lower mounts feature high durometer bushings and CNC machined shims to give you a perfect fit every time on a-arm assemblies. For those with struts, our lower mounts have all of the brackets for ABS sensors, and wire clips to install just like OEM so you don't have anything flapping around and no need to zip-tie something out of the way. Our strut mounts are also built to accommodate extra camber angle. Our lower mounts are also electroplated in corrosion resistant nickel.

In closing, our suspension is our image. While function is the key aspect of coilovers, I think we can all appreciate pops of color and that wow factor when you open the box. If I had a quarter for every time someone said "these are too pretty to install" we could probably have a few Bahamian islands where we'd have no speed limits and all of the turns would have just the right amount of camber in them. I'd probably start some sort of SPEC Subaru WRX racing series and provide everyone with a car to use. I'd have a lot of money because people say it a lot is what I'm getting at.

THREE YEAR WARRANTY!!

TLDR; You get a lot for your money, and your suspension is built with YOU in mind using the very best components.

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